Hat’s the making of a star: as Glyndebourne approaches, the June issue of Tatler tells a tale of two stars and two operettas, over one hundred years apart

By Chandler Tregaskes and Isaac Zamet

This summer, Danielle de Niese leads a stellar cast in The Merry Widow, recalling a moment in 1907 when society ‘lost their heads’ over another opera diva and Tatler cover star

LILY ELSIE APPEARED ON THE COVER OF THE TATLER IN JUNE 1907 AS SHE STARRED IN THE MERRY WIDOW. NOW, 117 YEARS ON, TATLER’S JUNE COVER STAR DANIELLE DE NIESE WILL ALSO TAKE TO THE STAGE IN THE SAME ROLE

Danielle de Niese’s appearance on the cover of Tatler’s June issue and the Glyndebourne stage this summer as Hanna Glawari in The Merry Widow as the festival celebrates its 90th anniversary marks a full-circle moment of societal fabulousness.

For, in 1907, Lily Elsie had her own cover-girl moment in the 5 June edition of The Tatler, when she debuted the English-language version of the German opera at the Daly’s Theatre in Westminster. The show became a sensation, running for 778 performances in London before touring the country. But as much as the production itself was a runaway success, it was the fashion that turned heads – quite literally. The costumes of the play quickly became the look of the season as le tout Londres rushed out to buy outfits inspired by the charming production.

Elsie’s costume, designed by society’s go-to couturier, Lucy (‘Lucile’), Lady Duff Gordon, included a millinery marvel. With its sizeable circumference and towering trimmings, the ‘Merry Widow Hat’ sparked a huge craze in Edwardian fashion. The ‘Merry Widow hat’ worn by Elsie in the play, a wide-brimmed, black hat covered in chiffon and festooned with feathers, would go on to become the look for fashionable women across Europe. Women in New York even sought inspiration from the play’s corsets and gowns when it came to their stylings.

DANIELLE DE NIESE BEJEWELLED IN A DIAMOND NECKLACE FROM STÉPHANE ROLLAND HAUTE COUTURE AND EARRINGS FROM THE HIRST COLLECTION Luc Braquet

LILY ELSIE DELIGHTED AUDIENCES AND SPARKED A FASHION CRAZE WITH HER PERFORMANCE IN THE MERRY WIDOW IN 1907. SHE IS PICTURED HERE WITH HER CO-STAR GEORGE GRAVES, WHO PLAYED BARON POPOFF IN THE PLAY Print Collector/Getty Images

The look would soon ornament the heads of aristocratic aesthetes the world over. These enormous hats grew to ever-more epic proportions, becoming a status symbol to one-up each other with – perhaps the earliest case of ‘go big or go home’ ideology in millinery circles.

So, when you’re getting ready for Glyndebourne, don a larger-than-life headpiece in Lily Elsie’s honour. Summer 2024 is set to be a tête-fête.

DANIELLE DE NIESE WILL TAKE TO THE STAGE THIS SUMMER IN THE MERRY WIDOW. SHE IS PICTURED FOR THE JUNE ISSUE OF TATLER, WEARING DOLCE & GABBANA ALTA MODA AND VAN CLEEF & ARPELS JEWELS Luc Braquet

The operetta itself was written by the Austro-Hungarian composer, Franz Lehar. The plot centres on the relationship between a wealthy young widow Hanna and Danilo, a man with an appetite for ‘wine and women’. As the tale unfolds, their romance is dogged by various accidents, incidents and intrigues.

When Danielle de Niese, takes on the role of Hanna this summer, she will also be running a mega-operation as chatelaine of Glyndebourne. Read more about Danielle and her extraordinary life in the June issue of Tatler.

Tatler’s June issue is on sale 2 May

 

 

 

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